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Although 11 seconds may seem like a relatively short amount of time to some, there is A LOT more than meets the eye. What you don’t see is how out of breath the surfer may already be from paddling. Did that GIANT fall onto his CHEST & STOMACH knock all the wind out of him? Swimming to the surface will consume previous oxygen. A lot of big wave surfers will also attest that sometimes the wave that comes after is worse than the initial wipeout and here why:
Imagine a 19 second period swell similar to this one. That means every 19 seconds a wave peak will pass the same location in the ocean. You wipeout, 11 seconds underwater, 8 seconds on the surface to catch your breath and then the next giant wave is moving you down again. Imagine just two more seconds underwater for a 13 second hold down. Now you have only 6 seconds to catch your breath before you go for a thrashing underwater again. A two wave hold down… we can’t even imagine.
11 seconds. That’s tough. 11 seconds in giant waves. Super tough. And this was with a flotation vest on… Imagine wiping out like this with NO FLOTATION.
Surfer: Grant Twiggy Baker
Location: Waimea Bay
Event: The Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational
source
Flea did that withno inflation shit on
If you smoke marijuana or tobacco your lungs do not retain enough oxygen and you can die in one of those waves 😢
Went over with the lip with a new 10' leash pinned to the bottom as my board tombstones no problem I can hold my breath 3 minutes came out with no waves and the leash was now 20'
wow. i'm never surfing again
lol….people who are unfamiliar with the ocean and think “I’ve swam a couple of laps in a pool underwater holding my breath for 20 or 30 seconds, what’s the big deal!?”
A pool isn’t a violent turbulent ocean…and you didn’t just fall 15 or 20 feet unexpectedly with your body doing about 30mph….and more often than not have a bigger wave barrelling down on you the moment you pop your head up….not to mention the amount of energy you’ve spent trying to find the surface…and so on and so on.
With ur heartbeat going full drumming due to adrenaline those 11 sec seems like an eternity, all of that without accounting for the beating u would take from the wave while under
The longest 11 seconds of his life. The worst part is being knocked around losing all sense of direction. It's so scary. I've only experienced the murky Atlantic NJ and myrtle Beach waves. I can't imagine what one of these puppies feels like.
Damn, the ocean hates them
He has a inflation wetsuit. Shit a 3ft wave holds you down for ten seconds. I've been surfing since 12 and haven't figured out how to breathe under water yet.
18 seconds u PUSSYS MAN UP😂😂
Wow! You guys are brave! Stay safe 🙏 ❤️
The force alone from that wave can knock the wind out of ya and I've been pinned to the bottom and can't even move on way way smaller waves than that one.
I'm not even a big wave surfer and I've had 3 wave hold downs also on way smaller than waves than this.
Respect to big wave surfers they're definitely a different breed of surfer.
🙏❤️🏄🤙
People have no idea. Sitting on the couch and holding your breath is not the same as paddling for your life and then taking a breath at the moment that the wave decides it. Imagine running a 100meter sprint then being told when you didn’t expect it to hold your breath whilst being beaten and rolled for 11seconds. You then get a second before repeating the breath hold process.
Nah. I don’t surf big waves anymore. Not that I even took on anything like the wave in the video. I’ve been humbled and don’t want to go there again. It’s truly terrifying. I have the utmost respect for big wave chargers. They’re made differently.
<10 seconds
Puffy vest makes it go a lot faster. No puffy vests and jet boats over here in nor-cal
Reas
the caption
Waimea 1969…Patsy’s Coconut Tarts
Bettah dan poi
Bettah dan peeg
JT only surfs..
When it stay beeg
Hoooo brah
Damn, I can’t hold my breath that long
the problem is not the first wave but the second and third…
He probably shit his swim trunks and didn't even realize it. So much water creshing on him, wiped his ass for him
Biggest waimea bay ever???…. Have you ever said that???… C'mon!
Let the washer do it’s thing remain calm otherwise ur in for a bad time or last time
even massive waves (double overhead) typicaly only hold down for about 10 seconds; if you remember this and stay calm; its actually not so bad.. unless ur getting dragged across a reef; also remeber theres a good chance another wave is coming as soon as u surface
Your holding breath while someone is punching you in the torso & spraying water up your nose.
That's with air Vest too
Trust me if that was you it would have been the absolute most horrifffying experience of your life by faaar! Nothing comes close to how insanely scary it is! And if you dont aurf youd probably not survive
Yeah but when it happens you use up mostif your oxygen with fear and fighting your way back to the top. Not to mention lots if big wave spots slam on super shallow reefs. Like pipeline breaks on almost dry reef at lowtide or only 2 or 3 feet deep. So when water weighs 60lbs per cubic foot and 20 foot pipe comes slamming down on you dispensing thousands upon thousnds of pounds of water on your head slmming your face into coral reef aka knives or hitting your head on. Boulder and being knocked unconscious or gettig head caught in between a channel in reef and having ear and eardrum rippied off like when i saw it happen to guy in fiji youll think twice about disrespectig the severity of the ovean. Im a retired army vet and ex pro basebll player who has done almost evwry sport and surfing and gettib pitched over the falls or caught in impact zone is scariest situation of any sport hands down
😳 I was ssoooo Scared for you THAT WAS ONE HELL OF A WAVE, AND I REALLY HOPE YOU ARE OK, I know the Washing Machine effect can really be brutal the next day!!!LOVE IT ❤